New York: day 654

In Cairo there is a Sudanese restaurant only accessible if you know someone who knows someone who knows where it is, which is in a dark alleyway near Midan Opera. There you can get tiny cups of Sudanese coffee, which is flavored with cardamom and quite delicious, and even better if packed with a ton of sugar.

It was at this restaurant that I had my first savory peanut butter experience. Any longtime readers of leahfinnegan.com are well aware that peanuts, in Egypt, are called Sudan beans; the nut is a staple of the country’s cuisine and many different peanut butter blends are eaten. This particular peanut butter consisted of ground peanuts, olive oil and chopped tomatoes and onions. And it was very good. So good. Try it.

The owner of the restaurant gave me a tiny coffee cup to take home (below) and it’s just the best. I use it strictly to hold treasures.

Cairo: day 35

Sudan’s favorite dish is ful, brown beans stewed for hours in a large cauldron (gidra)… In some places, a poor man’s ful is served using the bean water left over in the gidra, mopped up with bread and onions. This dish is called bush, as it derives from the shortages of the early 1990s when the first President Bush cut aid to Sudan in response to the Sudanese government’s support for Saddam Hussein in the first Gulf War.

–Bradt’s Guide to Sudan